Gondar
The graceful city founded by Emperor Fsilides around
1635. It is famous for its many medieval castles and the design and decorations
of its churches, in particular Debre Berhan Selassie
which represents a masterpiece of the Gondarean school of Art.
Famous though Gondar may be, however, no one knows exactly why Fasilides chose to establish his headquarters there.
Some legends say an Archangel prophesized that an Ethiopian capital would be built at a place with a name that began with a letter G. The legend led to a whole series of 16 and 17 century towns - Guzare, Gorgora and finally Gondar. At an altitude of 2300m Gondar commands spectacular views over farmlands to the gleaming water of lake Tana 35km to the south.
An extensive compound near its center contains the hulking ruins of imposing castles like some African Camelot.
The main castle was built in the late 1630s and early 1640s on the order
of Fasilides. The Emperor was greatly interested in architecture.
St. Mary in Axum was another of his work; he was also responsible for building 7 churches, a number of bridges, and a 3-story stove pavilion next to a large, sunken bathing palace, rectangular in shape, which is still filled during Timkat season with water from the nearby Qaha river.
The church of Debre Berhan Selassie, Light of Trinity, Iyasu's most lasting achievement, stands surrounded by a high wall on raised ground to the north west of the city and continues to be in regular use.
The interior of the church is marvellously painted with great many scenes from religious history. The space between the beams of the ceiling contains the brilliant wide-eyed images of more than 80 angel faces, all different in character and expression. The north wall, with the Holy of Holies, is dominated by a depiction of Trinity above the fructification. The theme of the south wall is St Mary; that of the east wall is the life of Jesus. The west wall shows important saints with St George in red-and-gold on prancing white horse.
While it remained the capital of Ethiopia until 1855, the city was a vigorous and vital center of religious learning and art, painting, music, dance and poetry, together with skilled instruction in these and many other disciplines.
